By Prof. A.V. Narasimha Murthy

Recently our Prime Minister Narendra Modi dressed in typical attire of South India met the Chinese President Xi Jinping and discussed bi-lateral matters. Modiji chose Mahabalipuram for the talks. Most people have seen this in print and electronic media. What happened during their talk is not relevant as it has been covered by print and electronic media widely.

Mahabalipuram has a hoary antiquity and the monuments therein have become show-pieces of not only South Indian art but of the entire country. That is the reason why hundreds of tourists from foreign countries as well as our own country visit these monuments, admire the sculptures, pay handsome tributes to the architects and sculptors and also to the patrons of these marvellous art.

Mahabalipuram is just 38 kms from Chennai, on the banks of Bay of Bengal. It had various names such as Mallapuram, Mamallapuram, Thirukkadamalai etc. Not only it had beautiful monuments, it was also a great port and this has been evidenced by the discovery of a large number of Roman gold coins. This prosperous trade is also attested to by Sangam literature. The monuments of Mahabalipuram became so famous that architects from Java, Cambodia and other countries were greatly influenced by Mahabalipuram and this can be seen in the sculptures of those countries.

The most important attractions of Mahabalipuram are the monuments which are carved out of single stone, in addition to temples built in stone. These monuments look like rathas (chariots) and they are called pagodas. Perhaps these are influenced by the architectural creations of Western India. 

At Mahabalipuram, on the shore of the sea there are five rathas — one is in the centre of the small hillock and three are there in the hillocks located in the West of Mahabalipuram. There are five rathas and they are Draupadi, Arjuna, Bhima, Nakula and Sahadeva. Hence, they are also called Pancha Pandava rathas and these bring to our mind the famous Mahabharata. There are many individual sculptures and also sculptural panels. Draupadi ratha looks like a hut in stone. Noteworthy sculpture is Goddess Durgadevi with four hands and in front of the temple is the sculpture of lion on which she sits.

The Arjuna ratha is at the Western side. It is a two-storeyed construction and has a mandapa. But there is no image in the garbhagriha. On the outer walls are found sculptures of human beings. Other noteworthy sculptures are door-keepers, Vishnu with Garuda, Indra sitting on his elephant Airavata, Shiva closely standing by his vahana Nandi. The Sahadeva ratha faces South. In the pillars of the mukhamandapa are found elephants. Elephants are found on both sides of the entrance (dvarapalakas). To the east is a small temple which was perhaps built for Indra.  Bhima ratha which is the third one in this series faces West. The peculiarity of this temple is, it has no garbhagriha or sculptures. Perhaps they were left incomplete by the Pallavas for some reason not known to us.

The three-storeyed Dharma-raja ratha is the biggest and most beautiful. It has a large number of sculptures and looks like an open air museum. Perhaps this provided a proto-type for the later South Indian temples. From the inscriptions found in this, it is certain that this was dedicated to Lord Shiva. The beautiful sculpture here is Ardhanareeshwara, half-man and half-woman. The characters are suitably brought about as enunciated in Shilpashastra texts. Among them the most noteworthy are the sculpture of God Ganesha and bhikshatanamurthy etc. Outside Mahabalipuram are two more rathas, Pidari ratha and Valliyankuttai ratha. In front of the latter is the mandapa dedicated to the demon Mahishasura.

In the Krishna mandapa are found various sculptures of Lord Sri Krishna such as his boyhood, Govardhanagiridhari, Gopalaka sculpture in which cow and calf are seen. There is a woman walking with a pot containing curd. One of the cow-herds is playing on flute and the entire group of cow-herd is hearing the flute with rapt attention.

One of the sculptural panels at Mahabalipuram which everyone has to see is named Arjuna’s penance. This huge monolithic stone has the sculptures of three worlds namely patala, the earth and the sky. There is a small cleavage which makes the huge monolithic stone into two pieces. Men, women and seers are watching with eagerness what is going to happen in the three worlds. To see this they are running towards this huge boulder. They include Sun, Moon, Yakshas, Gandharvas, Kinnaras, Kimpurushas, Siddha charanas, divine artists etc. In the South is carved forest life. There are many types of wild animals, wild tribes, which are life-like, while one bird is sitting on the tree, the other auda (iguana) is climbing the tree. A monkey is looking at the gathered people with anxiety as to what is going to happen next. A tribal hunter is walking with the day’s dead animals which he had hunted.

On the other side is a seer standing on one leg and doing penance. He has closed his eyes and had put both his hands on his head. His face shows that he is thinking of Lord Shiva and completely surrendered to Lord Shiva. By its side is a small temple in which is found a sculpture of Lord Vishnu. All these are shown as if they happened on the banks of a river. This shows the living of men and women on this banks of a river. It is also both enjoyable but if rivers overflow they may cause great commotions including death. All these various moods are beautifully shown on the faces of men, women and seers as well as animals. There is fear in many on the faces of sculptures. Most of these are taken from various puranas and this shows the sculptors had a good knowledge of puranas also.

Almost the entire world of men, women, animals living in water etc., are graphically carved here. For the people living in the sky, the sky seems to be their limit. That is the imagination of the sculptors. Visitors who have admired the Pallava sculptures have admired the Pallava sculptors and architects and compliment them for these skills. They seem to give the impression that they are sculpted by Gods of heaven. These sculptures bring reality to the visitors. A tiger is licking its young ones with great love and a large number of deer are galloping with great speed while a cat is following a seer etc.

Some scholars believe that this huge boulder represents the descent of the Ganga (Gangavatara) while others think that it represents Arjuna’s presence to get Pashupatastra from Lord Shiva. Whatever, interpretation one may accept, the sculpture is highly wonderful.

Other caves dedicated to Varaha and Mahishasuramardini have many sculptures. This  shows that Pallavas not only carved temples but also built them.

The Shiva temple is one of the great temples at Mahabalipuram. It had a lamp in its garbhagriha. It serves two purposes, namely to show the respect to the God and also show direction to the people who took voyages to this place Finally, who built these temples is  important. Many Pallava kings undertook this task, right from Mahendravarma (600 – 630) to Rajsimha II (700 – 728). Whosoever was responsible, deserve our admiration. 

Mahabalipuram is a heaven of temples and the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) is maintaining them well. Hence ASI should be congratulated. 

Finally, monuments belong to us and they are our heritage and protecting them is our duty. Let us resolve that we will enjoy their beauty and protect them. Hope the entire world would agree with this statement.